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Satay stayer

Snug spot: Indonesian-print tablecloths deck the tables

THE CHECK
Jakarta Indonesian Restaurant, 2/702 Brunswick St, New Farm, ph: 3358 5715.
Open Tues-Sun, 5:30pm until late.
Fully licensed; BYO wine only.
Entrees $3.90-$6.90; satays $12.90-$14.90; mains $9.50-$16.90; desserts $4-$5.
Street parking.

Satay stayer

16jul06

COOKING is in the blood for Ben (Bambang) Budianto. His parents ran a restaurant in his home town of Bandung, Indonesia, so when the family moved to Brisbane, it seemed only natural that he would open one, too.

And it has been something of a success story as the restaurant celebrates its ninth year in business.

Jakarta, which occupies a snug spot in New Farm's trendy dining strip, used to be in Paddington, but Budianto moved the business due to parking problems created by the burgeoning Suncorp Stadium.

He's happy here – cooking six nights a week (though his wife and apprentice chefs help out, too) – and his customers are also happy. It's one of the few Indonesian restaurants in BrisbaneBudianto has seen others come and go – and it provides delicious, healthy food at cheap prices.

Fresh satays are the mainstay and there are heaps to choose from. Egg and vegetable dishes are also popular, including the famous gado gado, which includes veges, whole eggs and tofu in peanut sauce, and lodeh, a dish that combines unusual veges (jackfruit, for example) in a lightly spiced coconut milk. There are beef stews and curries for those looking for something substantial.

The ingredients may be similar to those used by neighbouring Asian nations, but the flavours are something else. Budianto obviously learned a lot from his mother, who, he says, also cooked for 10 brothers and sisters.

Most dishes here are prepared mild, but the heat can be turned up at your request.

One of the spicier ones is the ikan or ayam bumbu Bali, fish or chicken prepared with a special Balinese sauce, a deliciously caramelised combination of ginger, lemongrass and chilli.

The dessert to try is ketan hitam. If you're a coconut fan, you will love this dish of coconut cream poured over a sweet black rice pudding. If that's too much, there are some lighter treats such as ice creams or grass jelly (made from the cincau plant) on offer.

Warm Indonesian-print tablecloths deck the tables and bamboo and wooden booths create a cosy atmosphere. Indonesian coffee makes a good digestif. You may notice that the delicious Kopiko coffee sweets that come with your bill are made in Indonesia.

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